While it is not dangerous to print expired or incorrectly stored resin, the chances of success are much lower. What's true for most of your food cupboard is true for resins as well. You need to shake it well to get all the juicy bits that have sunk to the bottom. You can think of it like a bottle of pulpy orange juice.
They need to be shaken or stirred to disperse them probably throughout the liquid. Resins contain additives such as pigments and photoinitiators which settle down while not in use. You can either make sure your room temperature is within this range, heat the printer or pre-heat the resin before pouring it into the vat. The temperature of your resin should be at a minimum of 20☌ when printing, and ideally over 25☌. It is similar to how sugar or salt can dissolve in cold water, but hot water makes them dissolve much faster.
You might know that resin is cured using light, not heat, but a certain degree of heat is still an important part of the reaction. There are some factors that greatly influence your printing success no matter what material you choose. You can help even more by adding other compatible resins with the Add new settings button. If you don't think the listed settings are correct, you can press the minus button, and Suggest a change in the parameters.
This helps the next person know what to expect. If the recommended settings gave you a good starting point for printing, press the plus button next to them. If you see any imperfections, (such as lack of detail, brittleness, discoloration etc.) adjust the settings according to the resin validation guide. If the print looks good, you can go ahead and use the settings as they are. You should always start out with a small test file to check if the settings work before launching a larger print. Every printer is slightly different, and the settings that work on one unit might not work the same on another.Īs stated before, the parameters above are not a replacement for resin validation, they are merely a good starting point for it. This is a crucial step, and one you shouldn't skip. Some settings such as support density are not included in the table, as they are heavily dependent on the 3D model. The names of the settings might be different depending on which slicer you use (eg. further parameters, instructions or obervations. The source will often contain important additional information that would not fit on the table. You might find its settings for another printer, which should still be helpful. If you are looking for a specific resin, but cannot find it here, try the Master MSLA printer settings spreadsheet. You can search the table for a certain property you are interested in, such as "red" or "flexible." You could also try looking for a resin with a low curing time, or one with multiple upvotes. How to use the spreadsheet (Step-by-step) 1.
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